Hunting with Ferrets
An Introduction by Taos De Vinous
 

Welcome members of the Hunt Guild, I am Taos De Vinous a 16TH Century ferret trapper/Hunter. I thought I would write up a little information on what I do and the basic art of ferret trapping. This is only the basics mind you and it's a never ending learning process.
 

Brief History
 
The hunting of rabbits with ferrets has been reported throughout history, it was known in ancient Greece and more recently in mediaeval England (1390) a law was passed restricting the ownership of ferrets only to those with an income greater than forty shillings per year, in order to prevent the working classes from using them to poach rabbits, which were then highly regarded as meat providers.  The keeping of ferrets in the UK for hunting purposes was very widespread before and during the war, when a ferreted rabbit made a welcome addition to the family meat ration.  The popularity of ferreting (the hunting with ferrets) declined rapidly with the introduction of myxamatosis and the massive drop in rabbit numbers.  With the rabbit population again at a high level, ferreting is enjoying an increase in popularity, as is the keeping of ferrets as pets, the two activities being highly compatible.


Hunting with Ferrets

Firstly, should you wish to take your ferrets hunting, please make sure that it is legal, in many places in the US it is not legal. Secondly, if it is legal where you are, make sure you have the landowner's permission, preferably in writing.  Ferrets are introduced to the rabbit burrow, typically at least two are used, otherwise the rabbits give the ferrets the run-around and don't come out (getting the rabbits to bolt is the general idea of the exercise).  If the burrow is occupied, a rabbit may bolt from a hole and be caught.  This may be done with a net (traditional way) made normally of hemp, by shooting, or by the use of dogs (typically lurchers) or with a trained hawk (such as a Harris or goshawk) (in order of efficiency).  Either way the quarry is killed instantaneously, in the case of netting the ferreter either dispatches the rabbit with a sharp blow to the back of the head (using a priest) or by 'chinning'.  The result of a successful hunt is a reduction in the rabbit population for the farmer and healthy, low fat, free range meat for the ferreter (and the ferrets!).  However, this is not always the case. Occasionally the ferret will kill underground, feed on the rabbit and then go to sleep next to it, this is called a "lay-up". Because of their larger size, hobs (males) are more likely to kill and hence are more prone to lay-up.  At this point there are two possible actions.  First, and hardest, is to dig the ferret out which I have experienced a few times.  Traditionally this is done by putting a large hob down dragging a line (a liner).  The hob goes to the kill, scares off the sleeping ferret and takes his place by the kill. You then dig along the line to find him and the rabbit.  The modern way to do this task is by using an electronic locator but we do things period ways not modern.  This can either be on the working ferret (no liner needed) or on a liner (with no line!).  This is a rare occurrence and I use some kind of item that makes a squeaking noise and my ferrets come running to see what it is making the noise.  I also make the noise when I feed them that way when they here the noise the ferrets will associate it with food and will come playfully bouncing back to you while doing the wicked weasel dance. The second way to retrieve your ferret is to block up all the holes, except one, and put a mink trap out, hopefully your ferret will be there in the morning.  This is very risky because you risk losing a pet and companion to many bad things. I have never had to set a trap to catch my ferrets I dig them up or use the squeaker.
 

Ferreting Equipment
 
Obviously ferrets are needed!  It is usual to use jills (Females) to reduce the chance of lay-ups, but as always there are people who disagree.  Similarly there are arguments over the color of ferret to be used, rumor has it that albinos are weak, so shouldn't be used, or that albinos should be used as they are easier to see in the undergrowth - except you can see a poley more easily in the snow!  Basically people stand by their ferrets, those with albinos swear by them, those with poleys think theirs are the best.  Aggressiveness is another thing, very tame ferrets might not hunt as well - but then they might also not lay-up so easily by the same argument!   Apart from the ferrets, the only other things needed are nets and a carrying box. Purse nets are usually used, these are pegged out over the holes and close up like an old fashioned purse when the bolting rabbit runs into them.  The carrying box is typically 10x10x18 inches and provides a warm dry safe place for the ferrets. Other things that are recommended are, sharp knives or swords are useful for getting through undergrowth, a strong spade (known as a graft) in case your ferret lays-up and you have to dig for her/him, a sharp lock knife for legging and paunching the rabbits and I always take along some milk for the workers at half time.
 

The Modern Ferreter
 
The traditional view of a ferreter is that of a furtive poacher, out on a dark night, with one or more vicious, bloodthirsty ferrets secreted about his person, probably in his trousers.  The old ferreter (poacher?) generally kept his animals in poor conditions, feeding them only milk and bread and rarely handling them, thus they were often semi-wild, to be picked up only with gloves.  The origin of putting them down ones trousers seems to have developed as a way of concealing them from the gamekeeper and later evolved in the "sport" of ferret legging, where the winner was the one whose ferret stayed down longest.  Luckily (for both participants) this practice is now all but dead!
 

Welfare of Hunting Ferrets
 
This section really should be first, because the welfare of the ferrets is paramount.  I feel that working ferrets should be treated like pets when not working.  They should be kept active and alert with toys, be handled regularly ( this is rewarded when you put your hand into the unknown under a hedge).  Also if she comes when called this is much better! Working ferrets also need to be fed a good diet, the old timers diet of "milk sops" is definitely out, as is the chuck them a rabbit once a week philosophy.  You only get out what you put in, well treated ferrets are happy and work much better than neglected ones. We feed a dry mix specially formulated for ferrets and supplement this with fresh meat, beef, pheasant and of course, rabbit.  The ferrets should be housed in as large an area as possible, the options here are, your house, a cage (known as a cub) or a ferret court (a sort of outdoor run area with a dry, warm, box for sleeping).  If kept indoors they may not develop a really thick coat which is vital for working in the winter.  A cage is OK, but must be really big, at least 6 feet long and 2 to 3 feet wide.  A ferret court is probably the best, but does require building properly.  Our ferrets come indoors most evenings for a play and to hide things to keep us on our toes.  Ferrets should be bought from a reliable source at 12 weeks of age or older, younger than this and they are not properly weaned (Another source for stock is one of the many ferret rescues/welfares, adopt one of their rescues).  Ferrets used for working should not be descented, it is a vital form of defense and doesn't stop the characteristic odor anyway, it isn't necessary for a pet either, castration and spaying are more effective means of reducing the odor.  Finally, I have been asked whether ferrets actually enjoy hunting.  Well ours dance when the hemp purse nets come out and get really excited.  It is after all natural for them.  There is always a risk they may meet rats (though some ferrets are used to catch rats - not recommended as the ferret can be seriously injured or even killed by a cornered rat!!!), badgers or other animals underground, but if they are fit and alert, they can run and if all else fails they can "scent", generally the ferreter must use some common sense.  As for the rabbits, this is an important point, when caught in the net they can be killed instantaneously by the ferreter. This is, in my opinion, better than gassing, crushing, poisoning or snaring which would otherwise be done to control the population (also the meat is free range and is used, rather than being left to rot).  I hope this will give you some basics of what ferreting is and will ignite some interest in this age old art.  I love my hunting, I love my trapping, but I could not do it without my 2 little thieves.

Taos De Vinous
Kingdom Of Ansteorra
Barony of Elfsea